To grow flowers or grow vegetables, fertilization is always required. It is difficult to distinguish the true and false organic fertilizers on the market. In fact, we can compost by ourselves by using the broken leaves of plants and daily garbage. It is absolutely a good organic fertilizer for flower fertilization. This composting method is very simple, and it only takes a little time to make a good fertilizer for your favorite flowers.
- Prepare a composter as you need. When you compost, composters help keep the ground tidy and reduce animals attracted to food scraps. You can adjust the humidity and temperature of the air inside the composter according to the construction of the composter. The minimum size of a pile of compost is 0.76 to 1 cubic meter, you can also make larger piles, but small-scale compost can also be used.
- Evenly mix the following in your composter, we highly recommend:
Green substances (substances with high nitrogen content). Green matter promotes heat generation during composting. The perfect greens are: young weeds (choose those that have not yet set seeds), comfrey yarrow, pigeon droppings, lawn weeding residues or other greens, but also fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and tea leaves slag (tea bags can also be composted), and various plants.
Brown matter (high carbon content). The brown material can be used as fiber for composting. Brown matter includes fallen plant leaves, dead plants and weeds, wood chips, straw, dried flowers (including those used for exhibitions, but the syrofoam packaging of dried flowers is removed before composting), and hay.
Other compostable substances. You may not have thought that these things can be composted before: paper towels, paper bags, shredded cotton clothing, eggshells, hairs from people or animals. Anaerobic composting is a viable method of composting, but the different bacteria in the process will make the compost smell like vinegar, attract flies, and the compost will look unsightly and stick to each other. If you think your compost needs more air, open to composter and add some dry stuff or add the brown stuff mentioned earlier.
Water. Your compost should be as moist as wrung out sponge. Adjust the humidity according to the climate. When the compost is too dry, you can add water directly or use green substances to increase the water. The lid of the compost bucket helps the compost retain moisture. Pay attention to changes in compost moisture, if there is too much water in the compost there is a chance that the compost may not get enough air.
Temperature. The temperature of the compost is very important, the activity of the microorganisms during the decomposition process is determined by the temperature. The easiest way to measure the temperature in the heap is to feel it with your hand. If you feel the compost is warm or slightly warm, it means that the microbial activity in the compost is high, and the compost material will be decomposed quickly. But at the same temperature, there is too much gas in the compost, and the microbial activity will decrease. You need to add more nitrogen-rich substances to increase the microbial activity.
Soil-promoted composting. This is not a necessary step, but adding a layer of garden soil or some freshly finished compost to the composter can help increase the bacterial count and speed up the composting process. If you compost with freshly pulled weeds, the dirt from the roots will also serve the purpose.
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You can speed up composting with this method, but sometimes it doesn’t work very well.
- Mix the ingredients in layers in your compost bin so they touch evenly and avoid large clumps. Especially avoid compressing large amounts of green matter together, they can quickly form anaerobic clumps.
If possible, start by laying a layer of brown material, such as broken leaves, on the bottom of the container, they will keep enough air in the bottom of the bucket.
Try a variety of material mix ratios. Three to one brown matter to green matter, or half brown matter to green matter, it all depends on what materials you have on hand.
If the compost needs extra moisture, lightly sprinkle some water over each layer.
- Regularly organize your compost. Turn once a week or every two weeks to remove impurities from the compost. Then use a pitchfork to move the entire compost to a certain location, and wait a while to move the compost back to its original location. Mixing the compost in this ways helps the air move through the compost, speeding up aerobic decomposition, since anaerobic bacteria decompose more slowly than aerobic bacteria and can produce a sour taste. All in all, finishing compost helps aerobic bacteria grow.
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Try turning the compost from the inside out, top to bottom. Break up any lumps or sticking together. If the compost looks dry, add water or moist green stuff, if the compost looks too moist, add dry brown stuff. If you want to increase the volume of the compost, add the new material while turning and mix the new material well with the old compost.
- Decide carefully whether to add slowly decaying substances such as heavy branches, folded newspapers, grass ash, wood shavings, and trimmed branches. These can all be composted, but take care to decompose them first when you compost, as these materials are harder to decompose than other materials, especially when composting in cold climates for short periods of time. Shred these heavy materials to help them break down faster, if you can.
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- Harvest and use your compost. If all goes well, you will eventually find a good layer of compost at the bottom of the composter. You can apply this layer of fertilizer to the bottom of your plant bed.
You can use a coarse grid or your hands to sift through the compost to pick out any lumps that haven’t been broken up. Freshly finished compost can grow plants, but it also depletes nitrogen in the soil as the compost material continues to break down. If you are not sure if the compost is ready, leave the compost in the bucket for a while, or spread the compost around the garden and let it sit for a few weeks before planting.